Dwarfed by the Wild: Exploring the Sheer Majesty of Kwatsi Bay

When the rain finally stopped, and the glorious fog that enveloped the islands lifted at our stunning anchorage by Madrona Island in the Broughton Archipelago, it was time to move on.

August 2, 2024

We meandered through the anchorages around Gilford Island, winding our way up Retreat Passage and Blunden Passage, and stumbled upon a little gem called Eden Pool. But I’m going to save that one for a future post—because we loved it so much, we came back later in the trip and spent a few more days in its secluded embrace.

The morning we left, the water was glass, the air perfectly still—a dream day for the trip up Tribune Channel to the farthest point of our journey: Kwatsi Bay.

Tribune Channel: A Place That Stopped Me in My Tracks

Some places are so striking that you can’t just motor through them—you have to stop, cut the engine, and simply be in them. Tribune Channel was one of those places.

A one-nautical-mile-wide, six-nautical-mile-long passage framed by towering mountains, its beauty was only enhanced by the last wisps of low fog clinging to the ocean in the distance. We were alone. No sound, no boats, just the stillness of the wilderness stretching endlessly around us.

Only a little farther, and we reached Kwatsi Bay—a place spoken of in hushed, reverent tones among boaters who dream of the Broughtons. Not many actually make it there, but those who do never forget it.

And yes, it absolutely lived up to the hype.

Granite Walls, Dolphins, and a Whole Lot of Waterfalls

The first thing that struck me was how tiny our boat looked against the towering granite cliffs that encircle the bay. From the drone’s vantage point, we were just a speck in a wild, untamed world. That’s us down there on the left.

Adding to the magic, a small pod of Pacific White-Sided Dolphins seemed to call this bay home. Every day, they appeared like clockwork, weaving through the water, hunting in perfect synchrony.

When we first arrived, the waterfalls—one of the bay’s legendary features—were dry. A little disappointing, but not unexpected. Although we had some rain at Madrona, it was a light rain, and it was August after all.

But then, on our second visit, it absolutely poured!

Normally, being trapped on a boat in torrential rain isn’t exactly a cause for celebration—but this time, I was hoping. Hoping that all that water would bring the falls back to life.

It did.

So. Many. Waterfalls.

Even then, it wasn’t quite the raging spectacle I’d seen in other people’s photos, so this place is firmly on my “must return” list. Maybe next year, if we come earlier in the season, we’ll get the full show.

Boaters, Pilots, and Stiff Drinks

One lazy afternoon, a couple of friendly boaters dinghied over to us and invited us for happy hour on their boat. One thing I’ve noticed about people who venture this far into the wild—you will have things in common.

Gene and John turned out to be pilots (the flying kind), and between their adventurous spirits, incredible stories, and a well-stocked galley, the evening flew by in a blur of laughter, strong drinks, and tales of the places we’ve been. Maybe we’ll cross paths again next year.

Watch the Magic

Enjoy my drone footage of this spectacular spot:

And if you want to see some behind-the-scenes moments from Ray, check out his video below:

Next stop: Simoom Sound