Orca, Sea Stars, and Windswept Days at Von Donop Inlet

We were nearly ready to set off. With Vestri’s bottom restoration complete, and after a brief delay when Covid sidelined us both (more on that in my last post), we were eager to get underway.

But, we still had one little problem.

Vestri’s stuffing box was dripping more than it should. Not an alarming amount, but more than it should. Since stuffing boxes are new to us, and we were planning a trip where parts and services would be hard to come by, we decided to to get an expert to look at it before we head off into the wilds. So back to Lund we went.

As we stood on the dock gazing at Vestri, there was a sense of calm purpose in the air. A quiet determination to get things right. This journey was going to test both her and us, and after all the care we had put into her bottom restoration, taking the extra time felt like the right thing to do. It wasn’t just about getting moving; it was about making sure Vestri—and we—were fully prepared for the challenge ahead. This moment was part of the journey too.

June 29

At last, we were on our way, heading north towards the Broughton Archipelago. Our next stop was Von Donop Inlet on Cortes Island, and the wait was more than worth it—we were truly rewarded for our patience!

The sky was a moody shade of grey as we went north in Lewis Channel. The air carried that familiar salty tang of the sea, mingled with the rich, earthy scent of wet forest that clung to the shoreline. From the fly bridge, the steady drizzle tapped softly on my rain gear. Despite the rain, I prefer to drive from outside on the fly bridge with it’s new comfy helm seat and unobstructed view.  

We explored Teakerne Arm, where I had been before on Snoopy, and I wanted to share with Ray the stunning waterfall at the head of the arm where, on a nicer day than today, brave sun bathers can stand behind the waterfall and enjoy a very cool shower.

I’ve noticed that it is often these grey dreary days when the wildlife are most active. Sure enough, we encountered our first orca of the season!

And they had a tiny little calf! Notice the calf next to mama in the photos below. The mother did a little roll, and then the baby followed suit. In the last photo below the baby was belly up next her mother. So cute!

Seeing that little orca calf roll beside its mother felt like witnessing the purest form of connection – a wild beauty that reminds me why I chose this life. It’s moments like these that reaffirm my decision to chase after nature’s fleeting wonders instead of chasing deadlines.

We anchored in one of our favourite spots we discovered last year, Von Donop Inlet, where the water is about 20 degrees celsius – warm enough to swim!

The water was clear and there were a ton of sea stars! At low tide I took the opportunity to do some underwater photography from the dinghy.

As I slipped my action camera underwater to capture the sea stars, I thought about how every tide seems to reveal something new, just like life.

My technique is simple and fun – I use an action camera attached to a pole, put it on timelapse mode so it takes a photo every 5 seconds, and just point it around underwater. I cannot see the back of the action cam, so the results are always a surprise. 

If you’re interested getting started with underwater photography, check out my tutorial Underwater Photography for Everyone: No Fancy Gear Needed. 

The winds were relentless with gusts of 20-25 knots, which kept us in Von Donop longer than we anticipated. And yet, that’s the magic of this life, isn’t it? The freedom to let nature, rather than a rigid schedule, dictate your plans. We hadn’t expected to stay for over a week, but we were in no rush and our journey was just getting started. 

Sometimes, the best moments come when you’re forced to slow down.

Next stop: Octopus Islands Marine Park