Dusky Cove: Sleep Lost and Beauty Gained

We had been enjoying Blackfish Sound so much during our trip to British Columbia’s Broughton Archipelago that we decided to try an anchorage that was on the north west edge of all the islands to give us quick access to do day trips into the sound and into Queen Charlotte Strait.

It also came with a little gamble.

August 13, 2024

Dusky Cove lies on the exposed western coast of Bonwick Island, and while it offered unbeatable access to open water, it’s not what you’d call a cozy anchorage. It’s wide open to the elements, and you feel that exposure immediately. Still, the forecast was calm, and we were lured in by the promise of easy access to the waters we had come to love.

The first two nights reminded us that the weather doesn’t always read the forecast.

Huge rollers came in from the west, and because of the way the current pulled the boat, we were taking them broadside. Vestri was being tossed from the beam like some kind of top-heavy bathtub toy, and we both nearly rolled out of bed more than once. Sleeping was… theoretical.

But daytime made up for it.

We took the dinghy out and paddled quietly into the back of the cove, and there, lumbering along the shoreline, was a black bear with three cubs in tow. They paid us no mind, which is one of the joys of watching wildlife from the water. We stayed quiet and let the moment stretch.

Cormorants crowded the nearby rocks, while oyster catchers flashed their bright orange beaks and let out sharp cries as they skimmed past.

An osprey perched high in a massive cedar caught my eye. It was too hidden for a photograph so I waited until it finally leapt into flight and soared overhead. It was the first time I’ve had the opportunity to photograph one in BC.

I even found a species of bird I’d never seen before: surfbirds. Perfectly camouflaged, they blended so seamlessly into the rocks that I only noticed them when they started to scurry around. It took some patience, but eventually a few stepped into the light.

By the third night, we’d studied the way the current ran through the cove and found a new, more protected, anchoring spot in a little pocket of calm just off to the side. That made all the difference. The boat settled down. So did we.

On the last evening in the little cove we were rewarded with the best sunset of the entire trip. Dusky Cove opens wide to the west, and as the light melted into the sea, we sat up on deck, finally still, watching the sky catch fire.

Next Stop: Lady Boot Cove

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18 thoughts on “Dusky Cove: Sleep Lost and Beauty Gained”

  1. Your tenacity paid off big time, a truly beautiful and peaceful location (when the water is calm).
    The Dusky Cove sunset is stunning.

    1. Thank you so much Gordon, I adore this part of the world and I’m so happy to be back out on the ocean. We didn’t go back to this exact spot this summer, but we did go close by on a couple of days of calm weather.

  2. I admire your courage and tenacity – to say nothing of your photographic eye.
    Thank you, Anne, for sharing your life’s adventures.

    1. Thank you very much for your kind comments Joan! I have always loved to travel and living aboard has been a dream of mine for as long as I can remember, so I am doing it while I can! After being sick for a few years, I’m not waiting to live any of my dreams, and I’m so glad I made the big life change to full time travel when I did. 14 years ago now. Thank you for following along, it means so much that I can share this with you all.

  3. Janet Richardson

    Anne, I am so jealous. Such wonderful storytelling and photographs.
    Stay safe and well.
    Janet

    1. Thank you very much Janet! I’m glad you are enjoying the stories too. I have been focussing on more descriptive writing lately (I even started writing a novel) so I appreciate your comment about the storytelling as well as the photos! Much appreciated!

  4. Your tale and the accompanying wonderful images started my day with a smile and appreciation for all that nature provides for us. Thank you for sharing the amazing journey both in words and photos.

    1. Thank you so much for such a wonderful comment Ceci, it makes me smile to know that my post and photos made you smile. I love spending my days surrounded by nature’s beauty and I am so fortunate to be able to share it with you.

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