After the supply run at Echo Bay turned out to be more wishful thinking than reality, we pointed Vestri north – still winding our way through the Broughton Archipelago – toward Port McNeill to stock up on groceries, fuel and other supplies.
August 12, 2024
But just as we passed McNeill Ledge, just outside of Port McNeil, we landed right in the middle of something unforgettable: a floating raft of sea otters – about 200 of them – lounging, snacking, and drifting together through the mist.
If you’ve never seen a sea otter raft before, imagine a floating festival of fluff. They lounged, snacked, napped, wrestled – living proof that being adorable and being wild aren’t mutually exclusive. Once hunted nearly to extinction in British Columbia, sea otters are still rare to see.
When we suddenly found ourselves surrounded by them, it was a first, and felt like a small miracle.
Early in the trip, Ray had mentioned that what he really wanted to see this year was a sea otter. I didn’t have the heart to tell him that in over 25 years of boating these waters, I’d never seen a sea otter. I’d spotted them from shore, sure, but never out here in the wild open. Then again, I’d never brought my own boat this far north, either. So when we suddenly found ourselves surrounded by them, it was a first, and felt like a small miracle.
Naturally, I couldn’t stop taking pictures. Some were cracking crabs open like it was the noisiest buffet in the Pacific. Others floated with sea urchins stacked on their bellies like little purple trophies. One overachiever was carrying two urchins at once. Peak efficiency—or showing off? Either way, I respected the hustle.
And if you’re wondering how 200 sea otters manage a group nap without drifting into the open ocean? Kelp.
They wrap themselves up in floating kelp, anchoring in place like they’ve all tied off to nature’s softest dock line. When we left Port McNeill the next morning, they were still out there – bundled up and bobbing quietly in the mist.
No otters = urchin takeover = kelp forest collapse
Sea Otters: Tougher Than They Look
Spend enough time around sea otters, and you start to realize they’re not just cute – they’re quietly badass:
- Fur to End All Fur: With up to a million hairs per square centimeter, sea otters have the densest fur of any mammal. No blubber here. That fur traps air to keep them warm – but only if they groom it constantly. High maintenance? Maybe. But it works.
- Back from the Brink: By the early 1900s, sea otters had vanished from most of the Pacific Coast. In 1969, 89 were relocated from Alaska to Vancouver Island to help turn the tide.
- Tool Time: Otters are one of the few animals that use tools – cracking open clams and urchins with rocks balanced on their bellies like they’re running tiny floating kitchens.
- Ecosystem Engineers: As a keystone species, otters keep sea urchins in check. No otters = urchin takeover = kelp forest collapse. And when the kelp goes, so do the fish that rely on it—rockfish, herring, salmon fry, all suddenly left without shelter or food. The underwater world thins out fast. But when the otters come back, the urchins retreat, the kelp returns, and life rushes in behind it. It’s like watching a reef breathe again. Bring back the otters, and the rest of the underwater world comes roaring back.
- Not to Be Confused with River Otters: If you ever spot an otter and wonder whether it’s a river otter or a sea otter – it’s a river otter. When you see a sea otter, there’s no question. They’re the size of a small child and float on their backs like royalty. River otters are smaller, sleeker, and usually swim low in the water or scurry on shore.
This is why we do it
Standing on Vestri’s deck that day, camera clicking, I watched the otter raft through the misted water and thought: This is why we do it.
Why we chase remote corners of the coast. Why we lug provisions in and garbage out. Why we fix things in the rain, argue with engines, and fall into bed covered in salt and grime.
It’s for days like this – when you stumble into something so wild and right and alive, it rewires you a little.
And if you want another glimpse of the scene—beyond the still frames—Ray put together a behind-the-scenes video.
Sea otters are a reminder that some battles are worth fighting. That wild places, and the creatures tough enough to call them home, matter.
And yeah, they’re ridiculously cute. But don’t let the floof fool you.
Sea otters are tougher than they look.
A good reminder for the rest of us, too.
Next Stop: Blackfish Sound
Miraculous indeed – the otters (or God?) showing up … looks like a wonderful celebration.
It was such an incredible thing to see – so many otters all at once playing and eating. I hope to see them again this summer. Thanks for your visit and comments Ewien.
Great Otter shots!!!!!!!! They look soooo cute. Ray did a fantastic job with Wales and Otters. Enjoy your adventures.
Sorry being late in making a comment, we were in Colorado enjoying the mountains.
Never be sorry for being outside enjoying adventures, that’s what it’s all about! I’m glad you enjoyed the otter photos, they are an absolute riot to watch and I was delighted with the results. Hope to see them again this year. Many thanks for the comments John.
Wow ! What an amazing adventure, to finally view and photograph these wonderful playful creatures! Anne and Ray you have captured these cute and playful Sea Otters masterfully! Thanks for the insight on these sea creatures. Looking forward to your next blog. Safe travels.
It was an amazing adventure and I can’t wait to get back out there in just a couple of weeks. Glad you enjoyed the post, thank you so much for your visit and comments Bill!
what a beautiful video and so exciting to see the whales and sea otters. there are quite a few in monterey bay, but i’ve never seen quite so many at once. i could watch them for hours! my favorite photo is the little guy with 2 urchins. adorable! thanks for sharing so many photos of them
Thank you Wendy! I too could watch them all day with their adorable faces. They always seem like they are trying to restrain themselves from doing a rolly polly and then give in and rolly polly haha. Thanks for your comments, they are much appreciated.
What a wonderful encounter! Deeply jealous of this one….
You need to come up here and enjoy some of our west coast scenery and wildlife! Thanks so much for your kind feedback Jackson, means a lot.
Fabulous fotos, always interesting to read your letter about your experiences. Still treasure the three E-books
So glad to hear you are enjoying the posts Kapil and that you treasure the ebooks is a huge compliment, thank you!
What an adventure!!! Thank you for sharing.
It really was a grand adventure and we’re only a couple of weeks from embarking on another voyage this summer. Can’t wait! Glad you enjoyed it Marty, thanks for your comments.
These are wonderful images ! I have seen numerous river otters but not Sea otters. I didn’t know there was a difference. THANK YOU
You are most welcome Herb! Yes, the sea otters are huge compared to river otters and they are an absolute riot to watch – so playful and rolly polly 🙂 Glad you enjoyed the post.
Hello Anne and Ray – I am planning to teach a granddaughter we are raising a course on Digital Photography during the summer months (she is 15 years old). I hope you don’t mind, but I have included some of your articles and photographs to use for training and reference during the course. Your photos and insights will be tremendous boost for her and more than that – an inspiration and motivation to perhaps make photography a career. The posts from you covering our Northern territory are fantastic – like reading a National Geographic article. Thank you for being our eyes and ears in areas we will never get to visit (I am 82 and still working in a factory) but we can be impacted by your photos, videos and written word!
Thank you so much David, I am honoured that you value my content so much! I have a bunch of new tutorials on the way as well and I hope you both find them helpful. Your wonderful feedback is much appreciated!
I am excited you got to see the sea otters. I enjoyed your blog and learning more about the otters as well! Thanks.
Thank you so much for the wonderful feedback Sandy, much appreciated!
Thanks for this mini-adventure with a raft of sea otters Anne and Ray! I look forward to what you folks may share from this season on our northern Pacific waters!
Steve Miller
I’m looking forward to it too. Only a few weeks to go! Thanks for your visit and comments Steve.
Anne that is wonderful, I am sooo envious of you both.
Glad you enjoyed it John, I can’t wait to get back out there in a few weeks!